is provided as a guide only and is general in nature. You should
always contact a local expert to handle most installations. Hangar
type and local site conditions may warrant different installation
first and foremost, and if conditions exist where safety is an
issue, only have experts handle the part installation. Most local
overhead garage doors suppliers and repair technicians can install
the parts safely and effectively. Look in your local yellow pages
under 'Doors' for installers nearest you.
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we offer are made to Port-A-Port OEM factory requirements. These
springs are rarely carried by home improvement stores, hardware
stores or overhead door companies, as you may have already determined.
Most of these springs are used only on Port-A-Port hangars, and
are therefore not a common spring. We carry both spring types in
stock, with shipping usually within 24 hours of your weekday order.
From the date they were first put into service, springs have a useful
life of 7 years and a usable life of between 7 - 12 years. It has
been reported that springs have lasted in excess of 18 years, but
there is a high level of risk letting replacement go this long.
new springs are needed
If one spring has broken the rule of thumb is to replace them all.
If you choose not to replace them all, you should replace the same
number of new springs on each side. By equalizing the tension with
the same number of new springs on each side, your door should remain
balanced when opening and closing. If just the broken spring is
replaced, an out of balance state will occur, which will lead to
additional parts failing. See the Main Door Sheaves
installation tips for details.
Prior to a
spring breaking, if you are using the "broom stick" method
of opening the door, the springs should be replaced. If you can
insert a business card in-between any coil of the spring (when the
spring is in the relaxed position) the spring has reached its useful
life, and all should be replaced.
of the door should be as easy today as it was when new. If it gets
more difficult to open each month, and lubrication of all parts
has been completed, the springs should be replaced. If the door
is as difficult to bring down as getting up, then the problem could
be elsewhere. See the Main Door Sheaves
installation tips for details.
do this with your springs
Never shorten the cable to get extra "stretch"
out of your springs. A safety device in the center section of each
spring will not allow the springs to be over stretched. Check to
be sure the internal safety rod or cable is intact and not damaged.
If it is not intact and a spring breaks, the coils could fall onto
the contents of the hangar and cause substantial damage.
a spring when the door is unsecured. Do not rely on the door
locking device to hold the door up while replacing a spring. Always
secure the door with a come-along, chain or rope attached to a truss
frame member. Do not prop the door open with a wood or steel support,
as this could fall over. See Spring Installation Techniques
below for more detail.
your aircraft or vehicle in the hangar when replacing a spring.
This is the most difficult installation, where safety and door balance
are paramount. Techniques for installation will vary by hangar type,
site conditions, access and skill level. It is recommended that
an expert handle the installation. Residential and commercial overhead
door companies are familiar with handling springs. Due to the uniqueness
of the springs, overhead door companies rarely carry the springs
and it is best to have them on site when they arrive.
a spring when the door is unsecured. Do not rely on the door locking
device to hold the door up while replacing a spring. Always secure
the door with a come-along, chain or rope attached to a truss frame
member. Do not prop the door open with a wood or steel support,
as this could fall over.
techniques (will vary with hangar type).
- You should
always install the springs with at least 2 people.
- Never loosen
or shorten the cable in any way. If cable replacement is needed,
measure distance of existing and replace to exact dimension.
- Remove all
aircraft, vehicles and any valuables which could be damaged if
a spring falls during replacement.
- With the
door up, secure the back of the door to a truss member with a
come-along, chain, heavy rope or similar heavy duty securing device.
(Never rely on the factory locking mechanism, as it was only designed
as a back up to the springs.) This will pull the door further
back, relieving additional tension on the springs.
the nuts on the rear of the springs all-thread rod, which will
further relieve tension on the spring.
springs and repeat above steps in reverse.
adjustment will be on the nuts and all-thread rod. This will need
to be adjusted monthly for several months until springs cycle
through their initial stretch. Springs should then be adjusted
at least annually or as smooth operation is required.
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Sheaves are the rollers which the cable travels over which connect
the main door to the springs. There are two types: the
Solid wheel main door sheave and the most common the
Riveted main door sheave.
of sheave failures
Lack of lubrication is one cause for failure. It can freeze and
not move as the cable rolls over it. This will create friction making
the door difficult to open and close, but more importantly it can
fray a cable. If a cable breaks there is nothing to hold the door
up, or if the door is down, only the all-thread rod to hold the
springs from falling down. However it is unlikely the all thread
bolt will hold. The all-thread rod will likely bend or break depending
on age, and the springs could come down on the aircraft wing or
other items stored in this area.
of a cable sliding, not rolling, over the sheave could crack or
actually break it apart. This could expose the cable to the threads
of the bolt holding the sheave in place, possible cutting the cable
with the results as described above.
tension is another cause of failure. After the part is replaced,
check spring tension by noting if the door goes up and down smoothly.
There should be no twisting, the door must be square to the building
and operate with ease. If twisting or out of square is noticeable,
the springs need adjusting, tightening or replaced. Refer to the
discussion on Extension Springs. Always
check to be sure the cable was not frayed as it ran over the broken
sheave. If any sign of fraying is detected, replace it immediately.
In most cases it is a 1/4" steel wire obtainable at your local
home improvement or contractor supply store.
installation techniques (will vary with hangar
With door up, the cable (in most hangars) will rise above the sheave,
allowing removal of the bolt holding it in. Slide out, clean and
lubricate (greaseless compound only) the area and replace with new
sheave. Remember to check the condition of the cable for signs of
fraying. Replace a frayed cable immediately as it is what holds
the door up and spring in place.
Where the cable
does not raise above the sheave, you will need to relieve tension
on the spring assemble to slacken the cable slightly, allowing the
sheave to be removed and replaced. In a few instances the cable
may need to be lifted with a come-along or similar type device to
relieve enough pressure to allow safe removal and replacement.
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There are two types of wing door rollers. The smaller of the wing
door roller is for the Standard,
Exec, & Exec I hangars and the larger two part wing door
roller is for the Exec
II & Exec III hangars. If you are unsure which hangar type
you have, refer to the Hangar Dimensions page
to verify dimensions of your hangar.
installation techniques (will vary with hangar type).
main door needs to be up and the wing door closed for this replacement.
You will need a heavy duty post and floor jack or similar type device
to safely change this roller, along with at least one assistant.
- Remove the
two nuts holding the wing door to the roller.
- Secure the
wing door so it does not move once the roller is removed.
- Place the
post on the floor jack and position under the closest main vertical
brace of the cantilever arm closest to the wing door of the roller
to be replaced. By slowly lifting on the cantilever arm the front
of the hangar will actually rise several inches. With one person
holding the wing door, the other person must lift the roller to
the top of the guide track and slide it towards the inside of
the hangar and out. If the bold does not clear the wing door,
raise the cantilever again just enough for the bolt to clear.
place the new roller in the track, slide as before and lower into
top of wing door location. Attach new nuts and lower the floor
jack/post set up. Release wing door from its secure position.
Adjust nuts to allow smooth operation of wing door.
In some cases a plate on the inside of the hangar track will block
the ability to slide the roller out. It is better to remove the
plate (it does not need to be replaced) and proceed as outlined
To our knowledge
no hangar was designed where the external metal siding needs to
be removed to slide the roller towards the outside of the hangar.
avoid removing the wing door to accomplish the roller change. This
is much more work than is necessary. If it is done, new screws should
be used to re-attach the hinge to the column or door.
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Have any questions
on the installation tips? email@example.com